Once again, London’s hotel restaurant scene is on the move. Whilst places like The Ritz continue in practically the same style as when they opened, big-hitters like Marcus at The Berkeley and Roux at the Landau have closed their doors forever – just as some of the biggest, shiniest doors the capital has ever seen are thrown open for business.
For this is the era of the super-hotel; the time of room rates starting over the £1,000 mark and innovative in-house restaurants chartered by Michelin-starred chefs. Claude Bosi has set up shop on the rooftop of The Peninsula London; sushi master Shinji Kanesaka has created one of London’s best – and most expensive – omakase restaurants at 45 Park Lane; and Korean chef Akira Back has just opened his first UK outpost at Mandarin Oriental Mayfair.
So, we’ve rounded up the best new hotel restaurants in the city right now – and keep an eye out for newcomers like Carbone at The Chancery Rosewood next year.
Ground Floor, The OWO, 2 Whitehall Pl, London SW1A 2BD
Kioku by Endo
Quite literally the crowning glory of Raffles London at The Owo, Endo Kazutoshi’s second rooftop restaurant has killer views of all London’s big-hitters – Nelson’s Column, the London Eye, Big Ben, etc. But it wouldn’t be an Endo restaurant without exceptional cuisine, which is delivered here in Mediterranean-inflected Japanese style. The nigiri is, of course, flawless, but we loved other more intriguing numbers like crab-piled spaghetti and a (surprisingly moreish) charred potato salad. Don’t miss a pre-dinner cocktail at downstairs Kioku Bar – ask for the private booth if you’re on a date.
abc kitchens at The Emory
Yes, you’ll find Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s abc kitchen concept at three restaurants in NYC – but its only UK outpost is at The Emory. The warm-toned, relaxed restaurant is on the ground floor of the spirited new Maybourne hotel, with an adjacent space-age bar and collection of Damian Hirst artworks splashed across the walls. The menu is mostly plant-focused, with abc classics like the crab toast and chipotle tacos joining newcomers like celeriac katsu and roasted cauliflower. Full review here.
Old Barrack Yard, London SW1X 7NP
57 Whitehall, SW1A 2BX
Mauro Colagreco at Raffles London at The OWO
Fine dining is an art form at Mauro Colagreco’s UK debut. Literally. Each dish of the five-course ‘land and sea’ menu is served with a watercolour print of its hero vegetable, elevating even the simplest of ingredients to rockstar status. (We’re not kidding when we say you’ll leave with a newfound appreciation for lettuce). Say yes to the wine pairing and the cheese course, which is wheeled in on a trolley with a cheese sommelier in tow.
Brooklands at The Peninsula London
The Peninsula London is quite literally a culinary utopia from head to toe. Starting from the top, spectacular rooftop restaurant Brooklands is inspired by the classic eras of British aviation and motorsport, serving modern British cuisine from Michelin-starred chef director Claude Bosi. Go for the tasting menus that show off the very best British produce; stay for the terrace views and stellar Brooklands bar.
1 Grosvenor Pl, SW1X 7HJ
1 Grosvenor Pl, SW1X 7HJ
Canton Blue at The Peninsula London
Taking the ground floor of The Peninsula London, Canton Blue bills itself as ‘celebrating the convergence of Asian and British cultures.’ In real life, this looks like a ship-inspired space with a dual-aspect fireplace and an à la carte Cantonese menu filled with dishes like Peking duck, blue lobster, and black truffle tofu. Prefer something lighter? Sit in the tea lounge and order tea and dim sum whilst cosied up next to the fire.
Sushi Kanesaka at 45 Park Lane
The hottest omakase in town right now, this 13-seat counter is hidden upstairs at 45 Park Lane and is led by sushi master – and namesake chef – Shinji Kanesaka. Every detail is so carefully thought through that guests are asked to not wear perfume to limit distractions – presumably so you get maximum enjoyment out of the 18 sublime courses that land on the hand-carved wooden counter.
45 Park Ln, W1K 1PN
Hamilton Pl, W1J 7DR
Pavyllon London at Four Seasons Park Lane
Yannick Alléno is no stranger to a Michelin star – after all, he has 15 of them spread across his 17 restaurants. So, it’s no surprise he scored another at Pavyllon at Four Seasons Park Lane – the London outpost of his popular Parisian concept. It’s a chic space with lots of natural wood and greenery, and the menu is both elegant and expansive, covering everything from croque monsieurs to a full-throttle tasting menu.
